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Arathian Fashion: A Primer
🕑 Added 2022-09-15 23:28:59 +0000 UTCFashion is a uniquely important consideration in fiction. My background is in theatre, so I’ve always had an interest in how clothing can enhance a fictional world. Because prose is not a visual medium, fashion can sometimes be overlooked—both for storytelling in general and in worldbuilding. While I don’t think it is necessary to always describe what a character is wearing, providing those details can help define the world while helping the reader visualize the scene.
Clothing and accessories can communicate much about a character without stating it outright. What they are wearing and how they are dressed can indicate anything from personality to social status. A character dressed in fabrics that are difficult to obtain can signify wealth; a character who purposefully alters popular styles or dresses against the norm can indicate their social deviance. Even something as simple as colour can be used to underscore theme, relationship to other characters, or emotional state.
From a worldbuilding perspective, fashion can help define a fantasy culture and make it feel lived-in. Using specific terminology can make the setting feel more historical or more modern, regardless of the actual historical usage of those words. For example, the word “tunic” can leave a medieval impression, whereas “blouse” and “tank top” leave a modern impression.
When I started worldbuilding for Wayfarer, I didn’t consider fashion as part of the worldbuilding beyond a few vague descriptions. This shifted as the culture of the Arathian Empire began to take shape. As the game’s main setting, I needed to have a clear idea of what people wore—not only for the sake of worldbuilding, but also as a reference for any future game artwork.
In early drafts, Arathian garments were originally “robes”. All of the Arathian characters—Quirinus in the Prologue; Zenaida, Malsara, and Nova in Episode 1—were described as wearing robes. There were a handful of reasons for this choice:
- The main inspirations for the Arathian Empire are historical Mediterranean and Middle eastern cultures, primarily classical Greece, Republican and Imperial Rome, and the Byzantine Empire, with nods to the Islamic Golden Age. There is also some inspiration from the Mughal Empire. I wanted a term that could easily invoke the visual of a “long, flowing garment”.
- Wayfarer’s world is gender-neutral by default and clothing is not gendered. There is no distinction between what men and women wear. However, I am writing in English. Certain words for clothing are gendered and would carry those biases and perceptions with them. Because I wanted to solidify the idea that most people wear the same garment, regardless of gender, I didn’t want to use “robes” for Quirinus (a male character) and “dress” or “gown” for Zenaida, Malsara, and Nova (female characters).
- Using specific historical terms for clothing made Arathia’s worldbuilding too analogous to its inspirations. Using terms like chiton (ancient Greek tunic), himation (ancient Greek outer garment), stola and palla (shawls worn by ancient Roman women), and dalmatica (Byzantine tunic worn by men and women) would make the setting feel like “fantasy [BLANK]”, which is something I wanted to avoid.
But robes didn’t feel specific enough. While the term is vague enough to leave it open to interpretation, it felt too ambiguous. As I did more research into historical dress and costuming, I felt that creating my own terminology specific to my world was the way to achieve the lived-in feel while avoiding gendered clothing language.
GENERAL CLOTHING
Arathian culture values clean and bright clothing. Dyes are among the Empire’s most important export, and form a crucial part of the economy. As they are readily accessible to all social classes, vibrant colours are common in clothing for all.
Colour is important to Arathian society. In some areas, it is traditional to match an individual’s clothing to their personal magic for holidays and special events. Some shades have restricted usage. Imperial red (a vibrant scarlet) may only be worn by those who serve the Empire directly. This includes: members of the Imperial family, members of the Imperial court, archons, governors, high-ranking generals, and the Imperial guard in major Arathian cities.
Archons of major cities may enact civil laws banning the general public from wearing certain colours within their city limits. This occurs when the colour in question is of special significance to them; the laws typically restrict anyone except for members of their House from wearing it.
Silk, linen, cotton and wool are the most commonly used. Cotton and silk were originally imported from countries in western Istaran. In 763 IE, two Meissandic clerics from Erenvor smuggled silkworm eggs out of Calantha, kickstarting the Arathian silk industry.
Some garments include panels of inscribed textiles, specialized fabrics embroidered with Imperial motifs celebrating the current reigning emperor and enchanted with protective wards. They are gifted to those who have achieved a high standing in Imperial political ranks, or who have earned the Emperor’s favour. By law, they can only be crafted in Erenvor and their production is strictly regulated.
SERITHANS
Pronunciation:
Sair (rhymes with “air”) – ri (sort i, like in “it”) – than (rhymes with “anne”)
Word Creation:
seri-: from the Latin sericum, meaning “silk” or “silken garment”.
-than: vowel/consonant combo than fits the rest of the setting, has no meaning.
Serithans is a garment worn in the Arathian Empire. Due to shared regional history, it is also worn in the former Lotharic city-states (even prior to Imperial annexation) and in Vestra.
There are many variations of the serithan. The basic shape comprises of a long piece of draped fabric fastened at the shoulder with pins, broaches, clasps or ties, and gathered at the waist with a sash or belt. As Arathian beauty standards value asymmetry, it is common for the neckline to be one-shouldered. An common alternative style is a high collar that leaves both shoulders bare.
Everyday Serithan
These garments have the least amount of additional structure and detailing. Traditional serithans are constructed from silk, linen, cotton, or wool. They may be worn with or without trousers beneath. Additional shawls, scarfs or sashes may be draped overtop for added interest or warmth.
Everyday serithans traditionally come to the ankle, but some may be calf or knee length. They are typically sleeveless. However, in cold or mountainous climates, serithans with wide-hemmed sleeves are common, occasionally featuring a undersleeve that runs the length of the arm and over the hand, attaching at the middle finger.
Some serithan skirts may feature pleating or additional draping details.
Imperial nobles may sometimes have their everyday serithans constructed out of muslin instead of silk. These are often left undyed and are kept a pristine white.
Formal Serithan
Formal serithans are worn for special events and as ceremonial garb. Some members of the aristocracy may wear them daily, but within their ranks they are considered court attire. While formal serithans keep the main silhouette of the everyday serithan, the overall fit and neckline may be experimental. Some are form-fitting over the chest, creating something akin to a bodice. Sashes are often worn over the shoulder to add a splash of additional colour.
They are always sleeveless and are never worn with trousers underneath. In cold or mountainous climates, enchanted threads are sewn directly into the fabric. For those who cannot afford it, enchanted gemstones or jewelry may be worn instead. Lower class citizens often wear embroidered wool or fuel-lined cloaks, capes, or shawls over top.
Formal serithans are constructed from silk. Within the Imperial aristocracy, damask weaves (reversible patterns) or solid, vibrant colours are preferred. In the case of solid colours, elaborate embroidery is added to the hem and necklines with gold or silver thread. In some cases, fabric may be jewel or pearl-encrusted. Translucent gauzes may be added as a fashionable outer layer.
Travel Serithan
Travel serithans may be worn for work or travel. They comprise of three parts: an undertunic, trousers, and an overgarment. The overgarment is shorter than everyday serithans, cutting off at the calf or the knee. It is gathered and belted at the waist, then splits down the side to show the trousers underneath. Sleeveless versions are the most common, but some may have full sleeves that cover the arm.
Masculine & Feminine Versions
There is no distinction between masculine and feminine in Arathian dress. This distinction is made in the game to help inform players. In Episode 2, the “feminine” turquoise serithan has a structured bodice that leaves room for breasts. The “masculine” purple serithan does not. Both, however, are long garments with skirts.
ABBERANS
Pronunciation:
Ab (likes “abs” but without the s) – bair (like bear) – run.
Word Creation:
Not based on any real world language roots. The result of mixing vowel/consonant combinations together until I found something I liked.
Abberans are the second most popular garment in the Arathian Empire. Unlike serithans, they are worn across all of Rhesainia, with the exception of rural Artanis and the Forest of Brennath. While they are not common in Artanis, they have been gaining popularity in urban areas since the country’s annexation.
Everyday Abberan
The abberan is comprised of three parts: a tunic, a pair of trousers, and a jacket. Tunics may be long or short; the long ones reach mid-thigh and the short ones are tucked into the trousers. Both variants button up the sides and typically have a high collar. Full length sleeves are more common, but some may be sleeveless. The tunic is belted at the waist with a sash, belt or scarf.
Trousers come in two variations, loose-fitting and form-fitting. Both are high-waisted. The loose-fitting versions are drawn in at the waist and at the ankles. The form-fitting are cut straight against the leg.
Loose jackets are worn over the tunic and trousers. They are long, typically reaching the knees, with wide-hemmed sleeves. Abberan jackets are highly detailed; the quality of the fabric and the intensity of the embroidery is a sign of wealth and status.
Everyday abberans are more likely to be constructed of mixed textiles, depending on location and climate—silk for the tunic, linen for the trousers, and leather or wool for the jacket.
Formal Abberan
Formal abberans are very similar to their everyday counterparts. They are constructed from silk, with a heavy emphasis on fine details and embroidery. Tunics and trousers will typically match, with a belt or sash of a different colour for an accent. Trouser cuffs are usually embroidered. Jackets are often constructed from damask silk and embroidered with patterns and motifs. The more intricate the jacket, the better.
They are considered less formal than the serithan, but remain acceptable garb to wear to official functions and events.
OTHER CLOTHING
Beyond serithans and abberans, some Arathians wear long tunics and trousers for everyday wear. Soldiers, military officers, mercenaries, and other combat-focused professions incorporate gear and armour into their everyday wear.
OUTER GARMENTS
Outer garments come in many variations, depending on the need for cold and/or wet weather wear:
- Cloaks. A rectangular piece of cloth around the size of a blanket. Traditionally constructed from unwashed wool and either enchanted or saturated with lanolin to make it water-resistant. Secured at one shoulder with a clasp or a broach. Extend to the knees or longer. Often comes with a removable hood. Cloaks of the upper class are often bordered with intricate embroidery.
- Capes. Shorter versions of cloaks.
- Shawls. Outerwear typically worn with serithans in cold weather. Constructed from goat wool or silk and dyed vibrant colours. Arathian shawls favour intricate designs with nature motifs, particularly trees, apple blossoms, and birds.
UNDERGARMENTS
Undergarments are typically made from linen. Styles change depending on the garment worn. Arathians wear a loincloth similar to a pair of shorts on the lower body. The upper chest may be supported by a breast band constructed fabric twisted around the chest.
Serithans with fitted styles have support structures woven into the bodice to support the breasts. They may also be may also be worn with a shift or chemise-like underlayer, cut in the same silhouette as the serithan, omitting the need for a band. If a shift is worn, most individuals forgo additional undergarments (depending on the comfort level of the individual).
Undergarments are typically undyed. Some members of the upper class may embroider or dye their undergarments, if they can afford it. In this case, some breast bands are decorated with jewelled or gilded y-shaped chains.
FOOTWEAR
Footwear is an important sign of wealth in Arathia. Going barefoot is unacceptable and is viewed as either a sign of societal deviance, loose morals, or poverty. It is also an indication of social class and profession. Sandals are worn by commoners; boots are favoured by soldiers, mercenaries, and labourers; shoes are worn by Meissandic clerics, Imperial nobility, and government officials.
Arathian footwear does not feature raised heels with the exception of boots worn by cavalry.
Sandals
Sandals are worn by Arathian lower and middle classes. They are thick-soled openwork boots constructed from ox hide and are left unadorned. Typically, they reach just above the ankle, but can extend up to the mid-calf. Strapwork differs between regions, with each major city having their own unique styles.
Wool socks are worn in certain regions to insulate against cold and wet weather.
Boots
Boost are worn primarily by soldiers and mercenaries. They are generally considered to be an indication that the wearer is a combatant. Boots are the most durable Arathian footwear, and are thick-soled and constructed from leather. They typically extend up to the mid-calf, though some can reach just below the knees. Some boots include a raised heel, while others do not.
High-ranking imperial officers often have motifs imprinted into the leather.
Shoes
Arathian shoes are worn by the nobility, the Meissandic clergy and government officials. They feature slightly tapered toes and may be secured with straps, silk ties, or nothing at all. Constructed from soft leathers, Arathian shoes are heavily decorated and may be dyed a variety of colours. They may be gilded, adorned with medallions, or encrusted with gemstones.
Many shoes are symbolic, indicating the wearer’s House, sphere of magic, or religious beliefs. Soles are often carved with messages, inscriptions or motifs, which imprint on the ground.
JEWELERY
Jewelry is extremely important in Arathian culture. It is worn by people of all social classes, though type, style, and material are an indication of social class. Some types of jewelry are often used to store enchantments that enable the wearer, including augmenters used by Guild mages and court mages.
Asymmetry is valued. In the case of piercings, one side of the face will often not match the other (for example: two lobe piercings in one ear, but only one in the other).
- Earrings. It is typical to have multiple ear piercings throughout the ear, particularly in the earlobe and the helix.
- Septum and nostril piercings. Nose piercings are less common than ear piercings, but they are a traditional part of Arathian beauty standards.
- Upper arm cuffs. As serithans often leave the arms bare, bands worn on the upper arms are common decorative pieces. They may be small or large, sometimes extending from the upper arm down to just above the elbow.
- Cuffs & Bracelets. Thick cuffs are very common, usually worn on the wrist of the non-dominant hand. They may sometimes be inscribed with motifs or inscriptions. Hand chain bracelets are a staple among the Arathian Guild of Mages and are typically adorned with a gemstone that acts as an augmenter.
- Rings. Rings are very common. They often hold enchantments that aid the wearer with daily activities or allow them to perform small magics from another sphere (such as conjuring light). Some are worn stacked on a single finger.
o Augmenter rings are traditionally worn on the index finger of the dominant hand.
o A version of a signet ring is worn by Arathian governing officials, including the emperor and Imperial archons. It is worn on the little finger of the dominant hand, and set with a gemstone that matches the colour of the wearer’s personal magic. It is attuned to the wearer and holds a fraction of their magic.
- Broaches. Broaches are typically designed with Meissandic or nature motifs. Broaches bearing the Arathian phoenix are worn solely by high-ranking government officials.
Necklaces are not very common. When they are worn, they are typically intricate collar pieces that merge with a serithan’s neckline.
Lower class jewelry is highly decorative and detailed, though it lacks gemstones. It is typically constructed from bronze, copper, and pewter. Gemstones, jewels, and precious metals are reserved for the upper class. A recent trend in Erenvor fashion has seen members of the Imperial court wearing jewelry fashioned from inactive Alassar steel. While the steel keeps its unique silver-white colour and watered texture, once it has been reforged it loses all anti-magical properties.
TATTOOS & SCARS
Tattoos are not common in Arathia. Within upper class circles, they are viewed either as a curiosity or something to be shamed, depending on the person in question. While it is generally acceptable for soldiers and mercenaries to have tattoos, it is an extreme social faux pas for the nobility.
Prior to annexation, the Lotharic city-states had diverse tattooing practices with regional motifs unique to each city. This has mostly fallen out of fashion since becoming Imperial territory. However, Velantian tattooing practices are carried on in the Undercity. They are common among the criminal underworld. As such, tattoos sometimes carry a bad reputation in the city’s other districts.
Any form of visible scarring is frowned upon as it is an indication of poverty or that the individual lacks magic.
HAIRSTYLES
Long hair is valued in Arathian society and considered beautiful. Complex braids and plaits are standard for all hair types and textures. After braiding, hair is gathered and decorated with hair pieces, such as cuffs, beads, jewels, and combs. Loose hair is socially acceptable only if it shoulder length or shorter.
Most Arathians are clean-shaved. If facial hair is worn, it is kept short and well-maintained. Long beards are considered a social faux pas, particularly in aristocratic circles.
Hair Coverings
Hair coverings may be worn for everyday use. They are typically worn by servants and labourers for practical reasons, to protect the hair, or to protect from the sun. In the upper classes, hair may be covered in private during downtime as an alternative to complex braiding and decorations.
Hair coverings are constructed from linen, cotton, or silk. They may be a solid colour or intricately embroidered. They are worn over the head and wrapped at the nape of the neck. Hair may be completely contained or remain partially visible.
MAKEUP
Arathian makeup takes inspiration from the theatre scene. Focusing primarily on the eyes and lips, it is primarily used to enhance facial features for dramatic effect and to play with colour. Makeup may be applied through enchantments, but many individuals prefer using tactile means in the event the enchantment fails.
Makeup is worn primarily for social and ceremonial events, but it does make an appearance for day-to-day activities. It is not necessary to wear makeup to be considered attractive.
Comments
Kar Rev
It means so much to me that clothing is not gendered and Wayfarer's setting is overall gender-neutral by default. <3 I loved this article! So exhaustive & informative!
