Najdmie posts
Posts: 210
Files: 589
Men Long-Sleeved Jumpsuit
Reference garment: "Jozev - Belted Shirt Jumpsuit" (from yesstyle.com)Instruction based on Donnanno"basic overall" (p241). Men shirt sleeve (p222). Basic collar block for shirt (p177).Fabric: Woven. I use cotton twill.Not recorded. Front placket, pockets, belt and buckle, elasticated pants hem.I included my own instruction for shirt sleeve pleats and placket. I'm still very confused on how the placket is made in real life.You can also separate the bodice and pants pattern, which I will do to make the toile. It is hard to tra...
Tips: Things that I wish I knew earlier in Clo.
1. Shoulder lengthWhenever I drafted from instruction that requires shoulder length measurement, I noticed that my shoulder-line seems shorter. Turned out that I've been measuring the shoulder length of Clo avatar wrongly.For years I've been measuring the shoulder length while the avatar in A-pose. What I should be doing is to measure while the avatar in is attention pose, like in real world. The discrepancy is about 1.5 cm which is huge.Shoulder length in A-pose = 13.5 cmShoulder length in attention pose = 15 cm2. Easily round the corn...
Women utility jacket basic toile
Stil a lot of sewing mistake. Bonus: my projector setup for tracing pattern. I will never print pattern again.
Women Utility Jacket
Reference garment: Moose Knuckle Sainte Rose JacketInstruction based on Zachary et al "women drop shoulder coat".Hood instruction from Muller&Sohn "detachable hood".Fabric: Woven. I use polyester taffeta but change the physical property to default fabric.Not recorded: Pockets, waistline casing, back storm flap, sleeve cuff, toptitch, puckering. The hood is inserted the zipper opening of the collar. The bodice and sleeve also has double layer (layer clone under) to help add more volume, but this is not exported in 3D models.The o...
Men T-Shirt Toile
I know it is ugly buy you guys deserve the see the result. I made a lot of mistakes, like sewing the sleeve underarm seam outside. At least it is fitting. Probably a bit tight at the armpit.I should sew knit using overlock machine, but I don't know how to operate it. Maybe next time.You can download the pdf file for A0 printing here
Men T-Shirt
Instruction based on Muller&Sohn "Basic shirt block for normal size" (p49).Fabric: Knit. I use cotton jersey. Ribbed knit for collar.All steps recorded except topstitches and changing fabric color..Sketchfab preview.Download link for 3D files (expire after a month).Download link for basic block. The folder name is "Thomas - Muller&Sohn - Basic Shirt Block 240321"I also prepared a pdf file for A0 printing. In my locality, it cost about 1 USD for a piece of A0 print. For plotter or other paper size, use the seamly2D file to export...
Basic block in real life
I got a lot of inquiry whether my pattern work in real life. So I decided to start testing the pattern in real life, at least the basic block.I cashed out Patreon money to buy several mannequins and sewing supplies. I also got a sewing machine hand down from my mother. She even got a serger that I can use.The pics show Bunka block that I sewed myself. Not too bad for a first timer right? But I still don't know how to sew the sleeve because the sleeve cap has ease that need basting first.You can find the pattern that I use here. The block is...
Women Redingote
No reference to specific brand. The design is directly from the book. I later realize that a redingote is a frock coat, which I have done before.Basic bodice: Bunka-style adult women sloper (Bunka textbook 1 p88).Further instruction from Bunka redingote (Bunka textbook 5, p34).Fabric: woolNot recorded: Buttons, back vents, pocket flap, martingale, surgeon cuff, topstitchSketchfab preview.Download link for 3D files (expire after a month)Download link for basic block. The folder name is "Feifei - Bunka Style Bodice 240312"
Racing Jacket
Reference garment: This pic. I cannot find the product page. It is the casual version of the real racing jacket. The real racing jacket is more tight fitting.I'm not a designer, so excuse the graphic design.Bodice: ESMOD body block with dart (p36). In the video, I simplified the instruction by removing waist darts.Further instruction based on ESMOD blouson base (p286), but adjusted for a slimmer fit.Sleeve: ESMOD two-piece American sleeve (p318)Collar: ESMOD turndown collar (p82), refer the collar stand only.Fabric: Leather.Not recorded. Gr...
Oversized Hoodie 2
No reference to specific brand. I know I have done a lot of hoodies, but I want to do hundreds more. I'm just obsess with any garment with a hood.I reused the basic block from previous video (Knowles).Further instruction based on Knowles "Pullover Sweatshirt with Hood, Drawstring and Kangaroo Pocket" (p69).All steps recorded except the drawcord.Fabric: WoolBelow is the overview of the basic block, not the final pattern.Sketchfab preview.Download link for 3D file (expire after a month).Download link for basic block. The folder name i...
T-Shirt Jersey
Design based on NFL Jersey.Basic bodice and sleeve instruction loosely based on Knowles "drafting the sloper set" (p35). I simplified the instruction for less measurement and shaping.All steps recorded. You just need to add graphic and topstitches.Fabric: Knit. I use cotton rayon.Below is the overview of the basic block, not the final pattern.For a short sleeve like this one, I make sleeve cap height taller because it just looks nicer that way. I real world, the sleeve cap height is usually shorter for comfort and mobility.Sketchfab pre...
Bias-cut Slip Dress
Reference garment: None. Design is entirely from the Armstrong book "Slip Dress with Slinky Skirt" (p500).All steps recorded. You just need to choose your fabric.Basic bodice block: Armstrong basic dress foundation (p44), and basic torso foundation (p449). You also need to refer contour guideline (p189)Note:- The skirt is not as slinky that I hope for. The book instructs to let the dress stretch overnight, but no way I will simulate that long. Perhaps I need to use different fabric.Sketchfab preview.Download link for 3D files (expire af...
Sports Bra
No video this time because I myself do not know how to record the instruction. Lingerie pattern is way out of my comfort zone. It will be better if you just read the book instead.Design from Kristina_shin book. Unfortunately, the book only accommodates average US women size, so it does not work out of the box for Clo avatar who has small boobs. It also relies on tracing the "bra underwire". Since I don't have the underwire on hand, all I do is guess works.I think for a sports bra, it is easier to just modify a tight-fitting tank top...
Hooded Bomber Jacket
Reference garment: Loro Piana Kasai BomberBasic bodice block: Aldrich Flat Kimono Block (Chapter 2). Alternatively, you can use any jacket block you like. I choose the kimono block because it is easier to make the raglan sleeve from it. The raglan sleeve is this design is a two-piece raglan, with a seam in the middle, which can be easily modified from a usual set-in sleeve. A one-piece raglan sleeve is harder to modified because you need to eliminate the middle seam.As usual with Aldrich men block, there are built-in 1 cm seam allowances that n...
Hanfu
Design and instruction based on Duong book."unisex pants" (p16). The pants is optional because it is completely hidden, unless when wearing a short coat."long traditional shirt" (p50)"long coat" (p63)I have to reduce the neck ease, else the garment tends to slip down.All details recorded except fabric color and topstitches.Fabric: Woven. I use default fabric but with cotton voile texture.Note:- There is a lot more variations of hanfu presented in the book.Download link for 3D files (expire after a month).Download link fo...
Patreon exclusive: Ski Pants
It has been a while since I made a Patreon only video. This garment is suggested by a fellow patron.Reference garment: Salomon Force - Men’s Shell PantsBasic block from Muller&Sohn "basic block jeans" (p31). Any basic pants block can be used but I use the jeans block because there are no front pleats to be removed. It is also easier to place the yoke.Fabric: I use polyester taffeta but increase the density to 50. Some part use nylon canvas.3D preview.3D files download link.2D files basic block download link. The folder name is "Th...
Download link: Ski Pants v1.0
Commentary post link.
Draped Raglan Shirt
Reference garment: None. The design is from the book.Bodice: Burgo women basic bodice with dart. I do not recommend making basic block using this instruction because the technique and measurement is a bit outdated in my opinion.Sleeve: Burgo basic sleeve foundationFurther instruction is based on chapter on "shirt with raglan sleeve" and "raglan shirt with draped front"Fabric: Woven. I used satin.Not shown in video: Everything important is shown. You just need to change fabric and add topstitch in you want.Notes:The original inst...
Trench Coat
Reference garment: Burberry trench coat.Bodice: Injoo et al "men jacket foundation", followed by "Men's trench coat" instruction.Sleeve: Injoo et al formal two-piece sleeveCollar: Injoo et al napoeon collarFabric: Woven. I use cotton gabardine but change the physical property to default fabric.Not shown in video: Belt, shoulder epaulets, flaps, pockets, buckles, topstitches and many other smaller details and adjustments.I'm doing a service by focusing on the main part rather than these details. Besides, I myself do not k...
Polo Sweater
*This is a rewrite because I accidentally deleted the original post.Reference garment: Uniqlo Premium Lambswool Long Sleeve Polo SweaterBodice and sleeve: Cole minimal fit sloper followed by enlargement for sweater jacket. The minimal fit sloper is drafted without any ease added. The author's method is specific for knit fabric. You must first use stretchy fabric or change the fabric physical property accordingly.
Rugby Shirt
Reference garment: Polo Ralph Lauren The Iconic Rugby ShirtBodice and sleeve: Myoungok Classic-fit Torso and Sleeve for knit (p404).Collar: Myoungok two piece shirt collar with separate band (p86). I'm not sure whether the real garment has the band/stand separated or not, but I like separate band for my taste. I also make the collar taller and more rigid.Not shown in video: Side-hem vent. Topstitches. ButtonsFabric: Knit. I used cotton jersey. But for the collar and placket, I use default fabric with poplin textures. Ribbed knit fabric for ...
Ruffle Collar Blouse
Reference garment: None, the design is entirely from the book.Bodice: Donnanno vol 2, basic darted bodice block (p10), and basic raglan block (p34).Further instruction base on Donnanno p52, "Raglan Sleeve Blouse with Ruffle COllar"The instruction is further modified with my own adjustment because the Clo avatar that I use has significantly smaller bust than in the book..Note:- The original instruction to determine bust-dart amount is: (bust circumference) - (chest circumference) + 0.5 cm. I'm having trouble following this instructio...
Welt pocket
I compiled three easy methods to make a welt pocket. The first one is shown in the video. The next two are so simple I don't need a video to explain it..1) "Cut and clone" methodBasically, clone the pocket outline. Sew the upper clone 'flush' with the bodice fabric except the top part, which remain open..2) "Cut and sew" methodJust "cut and sew" the pocket outline. For more effect, increase and vary the 3D seamline thickness..3) "Topstitch" methodNo need to cut anything or create a new pattern. Just a...
Single-breasted Jacket
Reference garment: No reference to specific brand.Instruction base on JungclausFabric: Woven. I use wool for collar and sleeve, and default fabric for bodice. But I change all textures to cotton twill.Not shown in video: Pocket and buttons. The project file includes all the garments put together to form a complete men suit. Some pieces like the collar and necktie are frozen to maintain shape. The are also some hidden pieces to help hold things together.FOLLOW ALONG TIPS- If this is your first time drafting a tailored jacket, you will fail.- Clo...
Dress Shirt
Garment reference: No reference to specific brand.Instruction based on Jungclaus shirt chapter. However, I modify some aspects especially the armhole shape.Fabric: Woven. I use default fabric but change the texture to cotton poplin.Not shown in video: Buttons, topstitch and some puckering along the seam. I also raise the final hem 4 cm.Notes:- The shirt collar from this book works really well in Clo. In other books, I usually need to make some adjustment and manipulation.- As usual with classic one-piece shirt sleeve, there are a lot of folds a...
Men Dress Pants
Reference garment: Giorgio Armani Men's Solid Wool Trousers. However, I did not include details like buttons. This is to simplify it because I plan to use it in my other garments later.Instruction from Jungclaus pants chapter.Fabric: Woven. I use cotton twill.Everything is shown in the videos except adding topstitch. The real garment only has few topstitch anyway.Notes:- I made a few pants like this before. I you are bored already, bad news because I plan to make hundred more and record every single one of them.Download link for 3D files (e...
Men Underpants
Garment reference: No reference to specific brand.Instruction based on Jungclaus underpants chapter. One significant change is I make the waistband depth 4 cm instead of 2.5 cm as in original text.Fabric: Knit. I use knit cotton rayon. You must use a stretchy fabric for this one. You also must manually stretch the fabric because the avatar does not wear the garment as real people do. The avatar 'wear' the garment from the side, while the real people wear the pants by putting their leg in.Not shown in video: I later change the waistband ...
Seamly basic blocks.
LINK.I will start to share my basic blocks, drafted from various books. I made a lot of these but have been reluctant to share them because they have not been organized.You can download from this link. Only a few have been uploaded, but I'll upload more later. I recommend to download them all because the file size is very small (around 20 KB). Some folders have zprj file so you can start designing straight away.If you are a designer, you don't want to waste time drafting the basic block. Other than using the block from Clo/MD library, t...
Long Parka
Sorry that I'm behind schedule. So much going on right now.Garment reference: This unknown parka from a show.Bodice: Kershaw basic upper body sloper (p40) ** I have the 1st edition, 2nd edition may have different page no.Sleeve: Kershaw basic sleeve sloper (p42)Garment enlargement and instruction for hood based on Kershaw parka chapter (p302).Fabric: Woven. I use cotton twill.Not shown in video: A lot. Cuff detail. Front zipper. Buttons. Drawstring and aglet. Waist casing. Pockets. Hem shaping. I also insert pleats into the elbow and dart a...
Classic Men Derby
I finally make my very first footwear. It is nothing fancy, but I'm very proud of this.This is just a proof of concept. I have not optimized this shoe to be worn by any avatar. If you remove the last. the shoe will lose it shape unless if your freeze it.Rather than the actual shoe patterns, I spend a huge amount of time researching and developing the last. I know that I can just find some finished last online, but this approach seems lacking. I'm not enjoying the finished product, but the process itself.You can view the model here.You c...
