Najdmie

Waxed Jacket 2, Extended Tutorial

First of all, thanks to all patrons that has been supporting me. Your monetary contribution makes it possible for me to make new garment every week.I recently reach 1k sub on YouTube. It may not be much for an average youtuber, but a big personal milestone for me, especially with such a niche audience. As a token of appreciation, I take some times to do an extended tutorial. I know that it is the most boring and technical tutorial, and there is still no audio, but I still do my best.Reference: Barbour Corbridge Wax JacketBodice and and sleeve: ...

Waxed Jacket

This is a redo of waxed jacket that I did a long time ago using instruction from Kershaw book.Fabric: Woven. Real fabric is probably waxed cotton. I use heavy cotton twill, but make it a bit shiny.

Women Denim Jacket

Reference: Levi EX-BOYFRIEND TRUCKER JACKETBodice: ESMOD darted block without dart. Jacket enlargement.Sleeve: ESMOD kimono sleeve with self gusset, kimono sleeve with seam.Collar: ESMOD convertible collar.Detailing: front extension, buttons, waist tab, sleeve cuff, topstitching, puckering, chest pocket flap, side slip pocket.Comment:- Two versions made - black and blue. Both have exactly the same geometry. I separate the file into two for Marvelous Designer user. Clo user can use colorway editor to access the two color schemes. If you want bot...

Men Short Tights

Reference: Adidas TECHFIT 3-STRIPES TRAINING SHORT TIGHTSBlock: Injoo Men Four-way stretch legging. I omit vertical reduction in the instruction for easier fitting. Else, I have to manipulate fabric stretch, skin friction etc.Fabric: Any very stretchy fabric will do. I use knit cotton rayon.Detailing: Style line, graphic, reflective strip, topstitching.Comment:- Merging the sideseam (converting two-piece to one-piece) is optional but necessary if you want stylelines that cross the side. If you want to start directly with one-piece block, you ca...

Men Long Tights

Reference: Adidas OWN THE RUN LEGGINGSBlock: Injoo Men Four-way stretch legging. I omit vertical reduction in the instruction for easier fitting. Else, I have to manipulate fabric stretch, skin friction etc.Fabric: Any very stretchy fabric will do. I use knit cotton rayon.Detailing: Style line, graphic, reflective strip, topstitching, ankle zipper.Comment:- Merging the sideseam (converting two-piece to one-piece) is optional but necessary if you want stylelines that cross the side. If you want to start directly with one-piece block, you can fol...

Cheongsam

This a redo of cheongsam model that I did long time ago based on instruction by Venderlinde.Bodice and sleeve block loosely based on Burgo. As this is digital garment, I can forgo comfort for look, so and I put very little ease (0.5 cm each quadrant).Fabric: woven, silk. Floral tile patterns were AI generated using stable diffusion. The exported model is the one on the left of the picture. You need Clo to access all four colorways. All original textures provided though.

Slip Dress

Reference: L'Agence Jodie V-Neck Silk Slip DressInstruction based on Burgo full slip, but I shift the dart position to cleavage. I'm not sure if the real garment has dart, but I think the dart will make it fit better. I cannot find instruction for dartless slip dress except Cole camisole dress, but it is for knit fabric.Fabric: Woven - silk charmeuse.Detailing: Topstitching, puckering

Shell Jacket

Reference: Fisher and Baker Kensington ShellBodice and hood: Kershaw anorak.Sleeve: Kershaw tailored two-piece sleeve for single-breasted jacket.Fabric: Polyester taffeta.Detailing: Zippers, pocket, adjustable cuff, pockets, trims, snap buttons, stylelinesComment: Should add more sleeve cap ease if I redo this.

Women Polo Shirt 2

Reference: Adidas AEROREADY CORE POLO SHIRTBodice and sleeve: Donnanno bodice block without dart, fitted in sleeveCollar: Kershaw short sleeve polo (refer collar with stand)Fabric: Knit rayonDetailing: Topstitching

Women Polo Shirt 1

Reference: Polo Ralph Laurent Classic Fit Mesh Polo ShirtBodice and sleeve: Donnanno bodice block without dart, fitted in sleeveCollar: Myoungok ribbed knit collar.Fabric: Knit pique jersey, ribbed knit for collar and cuffDetailing: ribbed cuff, hem side-slit, topstitching

T-Shirt with Pocket

Reference: Uniqlo JWA Short Sleeve Pocket T-ShirtBodice and sleeve: Burgo men T-shirt, but with more ease added.Fabric: Knit, cotton jersey

Women Sports Jacket

Reference: Under Armour Women's UA OutRun The Storm JacketBodice: Aldrich women close fitting bodice block. I modified the instruction for more dropped/extended shoulder. This block has bust dart. Generally, sportswear use dartless 'flat' block, but this particular design has styleline that cut through the dart.Sleeve: ESMOD pivoted kimono sleeve.Hood: Aldrich gusseted hood. If you follow the instruction in the book, you may notice that it does not subtract the gusset/band width from neckline.Fabric: I use polyester taffeta.Detailin...

Tailored Coat

Reference: Burberry Wool Cashmere Tailored CoatBodice block and collar: Donnanno classic coat block.Sleeve: Burgo 2-piece coat sleeve. Somehow I cannot create good matching sleeve using Donnanno instruction.Fabric: Woven. I use the wool fabric but change its physical property to default simulation fabric. If i use the wool physical property, the garment will be too light to drape properly unless i add linings/double layers.Detailing: Chest welt pocket, front-side flap pocket, surgeon cuff, buttons, back vent

Sheath Dress

Reference: Theory Sleeveless Fitted MIni DressBodice block: ESMOD darted bodice.Fabric: wovenDetailing: fitted silhouette, side panel, back zipper opening

Behind the scene, Footwear

First of all, thank you so much for supporting me. Your contribution means a lot to me.I have been dabbling a little bit on how to make 3D footwear. This will be a long term project and I expected to be able to produce various footwear models by next year. I will still mainly do clothing but will occasionally do footwear.The biggest challenge is that resources on footwear making is scarce. I also has no real world experience.I always believe in mastering the basic. In footwear making, the basic is:1. foot anatomy/measurement2. shoe last3. footw...

Sport Shorts

Reference: Adidas AEROREADY sport shortsTrousers block: loosely based on knowles.Fabric: Woven, polyesterDetailing: Elasticated waistband casing, side pocket with zipper, style lines.Comment: I did not include step on how to detail the waistband because I mainly deals on draft. Besides, this video by @MyDressPatterns already explain how to do it way better than I can. Though my version is different because I manipulate shrinkage weft of inner band instead of elastic lines. I also fake the tiny folds with many internal lines sewn together betwee...

V-neck Sweater

Reference: Uniqlo IDLF Cotton Cashmere Oversized V Neck Long Sleeve SweaterBodice and sleeve: Donnanno basic T-shirt block and wide shoulder sweatshirt enlargement.Fabric: Knit, ribDetailing: V-neck, neck ribbed band, cuff ribbed band, hem ribbed band, side slit, back shoulder fake raglan.Comment: Because this is oversize and use stretchy knit fabric, no need to be so precise. Sleeve cap ease is also not required.Finished 3D model at my sketchfab.

Casual women pants

Reference: Uniqlo IDLF easy pantsPants block/sloper: Injoo pants sloperFabric: woven, linenDetailing: Buttons, side slip pocket, phone pocket, back patch pocket, fly. Vertical stripes on fabric.

Overshirt 2

*The video is the same with 'Overshirt 1' but has additional instruction for back box pleat.Rereference: Myanderthal - Collar Lettering Shirt JacketBodice and sleeve: Aldrich flat shirt block.Collar: Aldrich 'shaped shirt collar with stand'Sleeve shirt cuff instruction: loosely base on Myoungok two pleats shirt cuff.Fabric: woven, heavy twillDetailing: breast pocket, decorative flap, side welt pocket, tag, arm pocket, back box pleat, waistband hem.Issue: As usual, one-piece sleeve creates excessive fold at front upper arm. Next ...

Overshirt 1

Reference: ISAIA wool overshirtBodice and sleeve: Aldrich flat shirt block.Collar: Aldrich 'shaped shirt collar with stand'Sleeve shirt cuff instruction: loosely base on Myoungok two pleats shirt cuff.Fabric: woven, woolDetailing: breast pocket with flap, side slip pocket, curved hem.Issue: As usual, one-piece sleeve creates excessive fold at front upper arm. Next time will try with smaller armhole, probably with more dropped shoulder.

Constructing Cargo Pants

Continuation of the drafting video.For timelape only, see this video.Turn on caption or check transcript on YouTube to see my notes.Intended for user with some experience because I will not explain everything.Supplementary files available in shared folder.

Files download

Jeans

Reference: Tom Ford Men's Moleskin Slim-Fit JeansPants block: Burgo classic trousers blockJeans adaptaion: Burgo jeans, with lowered waistline.Fabric: woven, denim.Detailing: waistband, belt loop, fly, button, decorative button/rivet, front pocket, coin pocket, back patch pocket. Textures to imitate topstitch and puckering.

Women Peacoat

Reference: Golden Goose Wool Double-Breasted Button PeacoatBodice: Aldrich women flat overgarment block.Sleeve: ESMOD women garment V2 two-piece sleeve.Collar: Aldrich double-breasted gent rever collarFabric: Woven, wool.Detailing: Vertical pocket, shoulder pad, oversize collar.Comment: Another approach is with standard convertible collar with neck tab. This way the lapel can be unfolded, and round neckline preserved.

Hawaiian Shirt

Reference: Celine Hawaiian shirt printed in viscose.Bodice, sleeve, collar: Myoungok classic fit torso, convertible collar shirt.Fabric: Woven. Cotton poplin.Detailing: Back yoke. Back pleat. Move shoulder seam forward. The lettering pattern is particularly cumbersome to imitate. I Mistakenly omitted breast pocket because I didn't notice it in the picture.

Women Leggings

Reference: Under Armour Women's ColdGear® Infrared Up The Pace TightsBlock: ESMOD one-piece legging block.Fabric: Very stretchy fabric.Detailing: Style lines, topstich.

Safari Jacket

Reference: Ralph Lauren Hartridge 4-Pocket JacketBodice: Aldrich easy fitting jacket block.Sleeve: Aldrich two-piece sleeve for outerwear.Collar: Aldrich shaped convertible collar with hidden stand.Hood: Donnanno Removable hood.Fabric: Woven. Cotton gabardine.Detailing:- Patch/cargo pockets, buttoned with flaps.- Buttoned fly front opening with concealed zipper.- Built-in waist casing for drawstring.- Back elbow patch.- Elbow level seam.- Sleeve cuff with slit and tab.- Drawstring for hood, with aglet and stopper.- Shoulder epaulet.- Side-back ...

Flared Sleeve Long Dress

Reference: IG post kdrama_fashionPlan:- Use basic women block without dart - Donnanno Vol 2- Lengthen garment to just above ankle.- Form slit on both sides up to mid-thigh.- Flared short sleeve. Most patternmaking book has similar instruction.- "Boat shape" neck opening - ESMOD women Vol 1- Belt pattern is just simple rectangle, but how to tie it? I didn't want to spend too much time on it, so i faked it with simple loop.- Woven fabric. I used silk. Satin may be better.

Softwares

1. Clo / Marvelous Designer - I'm glad that this software exist but hate the lack of competitor. The main reasons I use Clo instead of MD is because it has built-in render, and I can create baseline instead of internal line. On the other hand, MD has more feature for 3D pipeline like re-topology. MD is also cheaper.2. VStitcher/Browzwear - The only competitor to Clo/MD, at least for average user. You can request for free one year indie license. I don't know what will happen after one year or what is the price. The request process is als...

Books

Below is a list of patternmaking book that I have read in no particular order. If your favorite book is not in the list please let me know in the comment. These books are particularly focused on patternmaking, not sewing. As a general tip for English speaker, choose books that are written natively in English (book from US, UK or by Korean authors) because many translated books are not well translated - they may use unconventional term which may confuse you.1. Aldrich. ISBN 140518292X - Compact and straight to the point, but may be hard for begi...